I worked this one up when I wrote Riding with Strangers, because it was an obvious choice for someone who had written a book about Robert Johnson and now was doing a tour centered on hitchhiking. I didn’t do a lot of playing on that tour, but for five dates in Idaho I was
traveling with Rosalie Sorrels, who with incredible generosity added her name and voice to my presentations, trading songs and doing the driving.
There’s a funny story about that: since I’d written a book about how much I enjoyed that form of travel, I figured I had to live the part, so I hitched from the first date, in Portland, Oregon, to the last one in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Rosalie lived way up in the mountains above Boise, down a dirt road, and I’d been wondering how I’d get past Boise and up to her place… which wasn’t made easier when a driver dropped me off on the highway west of town… and then a taxi pulled over.
The driver was a young woman, and it turned out that she was off work and just driving around because it was a beautiful day, and damned if she didn’t take me all the way up into the mountains and down the dirt road to Rosalie’s cabin. So I showed up in a taxi, and Rosalie came out, ready to tease me for chickening out and paying for the ride… and, long story short, the driver came in for a drink, we had a lovely evening, and Rosalie told that story at every stop on the tour.
I hadn’t performed “Cross Road Blues” before that, because so many other people played it, but worked up a version for that tour and tailored it to fit my own experience. I didn’t change much, in terms of the lyrics, but obviously my attitude and experiences as a white guy hitchhiking in the twenty-first centuries were different from what inspired Robert Johnson to compose the song as a Black man in the Depression-era Mississippi Delta.
Before I get to that, though: Johnson’s song is about being stuck at a crossroads in rural Mississippi, trying to “flag a ride,” not about selling his soul to the Devil. Samuel Charters had another theory: that it was about a crisis of faith, with Johnson at life’s crossroads, calling on the Lord to save him — and it’s true that he starts with the verse about falling on his knees and praying, which supports Sam’s interpretation. But there is also a verse where he calls on his friend Willie Brown (a terrific guitarist, who I’ve covered in my post about “Future Blues“) and the one about wishing his girlfriend knew he was out there.
So I can see Sam’s interpretation, but I still hear it as a song about hitchhiking, and I sing the verse about falling on my knees after the one about flagging ride, remembering a couple of times when, despite being a lifelong atheist, I waited so long on a hot day, with no water and night falling, that I did get on my knees and pray. Those moments were brief and I was laughing at myself, even while I hoped the gesture might change my luck and certainly couldn’t hurt it.
Johnson’s situation was a lot less funny. That verse about the sun going down — if I got stuck on the road at night, the worst that could happen was I’d be cold and miserable for a few hours, but Mississippi was full of “sundown towns,” where Black people could be jailed if they were found after dark… if someone wasn’t mean or drunk enough to kill them.
So I sing a lot of the same words, but they have a very different feel. I’m also playing a different guitar part, because this is a project about memory, and even the parts I thought I remembered from his playing seem to have evolved into other licks.
So it’s still his song, but when I sing it I’m picturing my own experiences — which makes a lot more sense than trying to pretend, even for a minute, that I’m Robert Johnson.
(Though I generally try to reshape them to fit my own style and abilities, I’ve reworked a few other Johnson songs and written about them in previous posts: “Traveling Riverside Blues (Rolling and Tumbling),” “From Four Until Late,” and “Walking Blues.”)
Like most people who were around in the 1960s and not fortunate enough to hear him live, I was introduced to House by the album he recorded for Columbia Records in 1965. The odd thing about that record, for me, is that although House was an excellent lyricist and the songs were largely his own, the tracks that captured my imagination were an old gospel song, “Don’t You Mind People Grinning In Your Face,” which he sang a cappella, and this regional standard, which John Hurt and Furry Lewis recorded as “Pera Lee.”
I Had Possession Over Judgement Day” and “Traveling Riverside Blues.” However, the only Johnson songs I ended up performing were “
Steve comes into the story because he was one of my dearest friends and favorite slide guitarists, and he died a year and a half ago, following a trip we made together down the West Coast, and one of my jobs in the last couple of months was writing a biographical sketch and compiling some of his favorite stories for an upcoming book of his songs I’ve been putting together in collaboration with his longtime partner Del Rey.
I can perfectly recollect the thrill of driving along the river and seeing signs for the towns in this song — it was like when I was walking through France after reading Shakespeare’s Henry V and saw a sign for the battlefield of Agincourt; at some level, I knew those were real places, but I’d always heard the names as magical, and it was startling to find them on road signs. (It was also startling to find that Friars Point is locally famous not because it was visited and immortalized by Robert Johnson, but as the birthplace of Harold Jenkins, a.k.a. Conway Twitty.)
demonstrating with Furry Lewis’s “
“I simply had protected myself.… You know, I was afraid of Albert. He beat me unmercifully a few nights before the big-blow-off. My eye was festered and sore from that lacin’ when I went before Judge Clark. He noticed it, too.…The judge even gave me back my gun. Don’t know what I did with it. Guess I pawned it or gave it away. Everybody carried a gun in those days.”
My choice to drop the racial identification brings to mind the racial confusion around Rose’s version, which was issued in Gennett Records’ “Race” line, meaning he was marketed as a Black performer, although there is some doubt whether he was Black — or, more accurately, whether he was socially categorized as Black. (Forgive me for repeating that “Black” and “white” as US racial categories are social, not genetic: Someone who came to the US as a Portuguese, Greek, or Italian is considered “white,” even if their skin color and curly hair is a reminder of the centuries of connection between those areas and Africa; someone whose ancestry includes even one person who was brought to the US as an African slave is considered “Black,” no matter how large a proportion of their ancestry is European.)
Which brings me to “Cigarettes and Coffee Blues,” which isn’t a blues in the classic sense, but qualifiesin honky-tonk terms. I got it off an album of Lefty Frizzell hits, which I’d bought because Merle listed him as a major influence. I liked the way he sang, but honestly never listened to him as much as I thought I should… and when I just went back and checked out his version of this one, it’s very different from what I remembered. I also hadn’t noticed (or hadn’t remembered) that it was composed by Marty Robbins. (I just checked out his version; I don’t think it holds a candle to Lefty’s.)
maybe in part because at that point I was eleven or twelve years old and my voice hadn’t changed, but I didn’t get appreciably better with adolescence.Not that I ever stopped trying — I worked on Bob Dylan’s version of “Freight Train Blues” and Jack Elliot’s “Sadie Brown,” and later on I managed to get some kind of handle on Hank Williams’s version of “
with Strangers

More prosaically, it was the first major R&B hit (that is, hit by a Black artist) to “cross over” to the white teen pop charts and dominate them with no significant competition from white covers. There were plenty of white covers, including one by Marty Robbins that made some noise on the C&W charts, but unlike the Pat Boone covers of Little Richard and Fats Domino, they never got traction on the pop scene — and within a few records, Berry’s songs would be hitting quicker and higher on the pop charts than on the racially defined R&B charts.
To be clear, Blake could play faster and smoother than I will ever be able to play or have dreamed of playing, but he took his time on this one. Which said, I’m happy with my tempo — this isn’t an exercise in precise recreation, it’s an exercise in seeing how I remember the songs I learned over the course of my life, and this is how I remember this one…