I have no idea where or when I learned this song, and research provides no clues, because it’s been done by everyone from Mamie Smith to Willie Nelson–including Louis Armstrong, Sidney Bechet, Cliff Bruner, and a duet version by Johnny Mercer and Bobby Darin. So this post is all going to be background, starting with “jelly roll.” I cover the subject more thoroughly in my latest book, Jelly Roll Blues, which focuses on Jelly Roll Morton but ranges fairly widely, but for the moment…
Of course, the term refers to a baked good made by spreading jelly on a sheet of sponge cake and rolling it up into a roll. The verse of this song (which I never learned and only recently heard) explains that it’s about a greedy little boy named Willie Green from New Orleans, who has received a nice jelly roll as a present from his mother and refuses to share it with the other kids, and the cover of the original sheet music, back in 1919, portrayed that scene.
Much as it pains me to suggest an alternate meaning, an early scholar of Black folk song named Guy Johnson wrote in 1927 that “jelly roll” was
“by far the most common” sexual euphemism in blues lyrics, and “stands for the vagina, or for the female genitalia in general, and sometimes for sexual intercourse.” If, for a moment, we consider that interpretation, it suggests some ambiguity in little Willie’s gender identification… but the term was to some extent polymorphous and the lyric I sing includes the gender-balanced line (assuming I’m singing about a het [though not necessarily cis] couple), “your jelly sure is fine, but you ain’t getting none of mine…” which leads to a minor mystery, because I haven’t been able to find that line in any other version. (Steve Mann’s version is somewhat similar, and I love his guitar part, so maybe I adapted his lyric, but if someone knows a closer source, please let me know.)
As for the song itself, it was and is a very popular trad jazz number, composed by Clarence and Spencer Williams, who both were Louisianans, but not related to each other.
Spencer was the elder, most likely born in 1886 in Alabama (likely Selma, though his parents also lived in Birmingham and Montgomery), though at times he claimed to have been born in New Orleans “as long ago as 1880.” He also claimed to have been a nephew of Lulu White, the most famous Black madame in the red light district remembered as Storyville, and to have lived as a teenager in her famous Mahogany Hall — which sounds like a colorful invention, but White does seem to have been his aunt, or at least a near relation, and he does seem to have spent time with her in New Orleans. Be that as it may, he was in Chicago by 1908 and began publishing songs shortly thereafter — hundreds of them, eventually, with over a hundred different collaborators, including “Mahogany Hall Stomp,” “Royal Garden Blues,” “Basin Street Blues,” “I Ain’t Got Nobody,” “I’ve Found a New Baby,” “Everybody Loves My Baby,” this one, and the similarly-themed “Nobody in Town Can Bake a Sweet Jelly Roll Like Mine.” He also made some records, including naughty double-entendre duets with the guitarists Lonnie Johnson and Teddy Bunn, backed by James P. Johnson on piano — which may be more than you needed to know, but it’s a hell of a resume.
Clarence Williams was less prolific as a songwriter, but a good deal more prosperous, since he was also a successful publisher, made hundreds of records, managed a bunch of bands and produced a bunch of blues singers — one of his bands had Louis Armstrong on trumpet and one of the singers was Bessie Smith — and, all in all, was one of the most important figures on the New York jazz and blues scene. His compositional talents are a bit hard to judge, since he also put his name on a lot of tunes he bought or “borrowed” from other people, but he and Spencer seem to have been genuine collaborators and there’s no reason to doubt he had a hand in this one. He also made a nice recording of it — maybe my favorite — in 1934, with the versatile Roy Smeck on guitar.
To my eternal regret, I never met Smeck, though I easily could have; he was giving guitar lessons in New York when I was there studying with Dave Van Ronk.
I do not regret a minute spent with Dave, but if I’d suggested taking some supplementary lessons from Smeck, Dave would have heartily encouraged me… ah, well. I did get to see him live once, and he was terrific: his finale was a version of “Paddlin’ Madeline Home,” chording on a harmonica held in his mouth without a rack and playing the melody and variations on a ukulele, while moving it like a canoe paddle. Ars longa, and all that…
early 1980s, this was one of Bill’s strongest songs, introduced with stories of freezing, scuffling, and drinking during his time ashore at a place called the Shamrock Topless Bar and Laundromat.
The only time Monte made it to the east coast was a year or so later, for our album release concert, when Bill and I had Reckless Records, producing our first albums and one from Dave Van Ronk. Monte played with Dave at the show, and he and Bill were polite to each other, but they couldn’t get over the car incident.
He aged into the voice, sooner than he should have. Too much whiskey was part of it, but there are always reasons for the whiskey, and so many of his songs express a deep loneliness. I don’t know where that came from, and at some level I can’t regret it, since it gave the songs their depth and power, but that’s a hell of a trade.
an ironic cliché, meaning the Germans who didn’t like Hitler, didn’t support the extermination of the Jews, and later insisted they would have been horrified if they had known what was going on… but said they only learned about those horrors after the war… even though all their Jewish neighbors were disappearing and never returning, and the Gestapo was breaking down doors and hauling people away. Like many other people in many other situations, they managed to convince themselves that war is always terrible, and of course a nation at war will do dreadful things, but Germany was still essentially a good nation, even in these dark times, and they were essentially good people… and, in any case, what could they have done?
entered the small village of My Lai, searching for Viet Cong troops; found no soldiers or men of military age; and burned the village to the ground, while slaughtering some five hundred women, children, and old men, after raping many of the women, including girls as young as ten or twelve. Despite the testimony of a few horrified soldiers who protested and managed to save some people, those facts were suppressed, Medina was given a medal, and the story only became public a year and a half later. The army, which originally reported the massacre as a battle in which “128 Viet Cong and 22 civilians” had been killed, eventually court-martialed and convicted Calley, but not his superiors — and went from denying what had happened in My Lai to claiming it was a unique incident, despite investigations that turned up numerous similar massacres. The song, of course, is referring to the Nuremberg war crimes trials following the Nazi Holocaust.
I grew up with these songs and stories, and the lesson that in many situations, ignorance is chosen and is complicity. When I talk to people who say they don’t know about the horrors of the Israeli prison camps; choose to frame the genocidal bombing, starvation, and destruction in Gaza as defensive, or as normal horrors of war; or accept claims that the IDF is targeting only combatants, these are the songs and stories that come back to me.
Some of the “small things” do not feel small; some can feel dangerous or difficult. Some are, in fact, dangerous — the “good Germans” were facing real pressures, real dangers to themselves and their families if they did what all of us in hindsight agree would have been the right thing. I understand why they felt they were not to blame; I understand why some people may argue they were not to blame. But I was raised on stories of my relatives who were on the cattle cars, shipped east to be exterminated while the “good Germans” pretended not to know what was happening; and the lesson was that there is nothing worse than that.
On the album I had, it was titled “Don’t Let Nobody Burn Down Burma Road,” which is testimony to the fact that the producers couldn’t understand Spence’s Bahamian accent and didn’t have the internet handy to fill them in on the song’s history… which turns out to be interesting and to give the lyric a deeper meaning than they or I understood.
The short version of that story is that in the summer of 1942, as the United States entered WWII, two major air bases were under construction in the Bahamas by a mix of imported workers from the US and local hands, and it turned out that the Bahamian workers were being paid only a third (or a half, or a quarter — the reports vary) of the hourly wage paid to the Americans.
This brings us to Ronnie Butler, “the Godfather of Bahamian Music,” who recorded a song called “
another from the same disc. I fell in love with it, first for the lyrics and then for the odd chord progression, which no one but a guitar player would ever come up with, following one chord shape up the neck, then shifting to another key for the chorus.
And he followed it with “I got a good Christian raisin’ and an eighth-grade education/ Ain’t no need in y’all treating me this way.” That’s from his autobiographical masterpiece, “I’ve Been to Georgia on a Fast Train,” which sketches his hardscrabble youth with brilliant economy — “I just thought I’d mention, my grandma’s old age pension/ Is the reason why I’m standing here today…”
It looks like some old drunk wandered up on stage to sing along with a young country-rock band. Billy Joe Shaver is rumpled and craggy, with a face like a beat-up barn door framed by stringy, shoulder-length gray hair. He stands stiffly at the mike in a sweat-soaked black t-shirt, making broad, clumsy gestures to punch home the words of his songs. His voice is strong, tagging favorite lines with a hard, Texas yodel, but sometimes he has to fight a little to find the pitch.
1980s, in a large part due to
Mitch Miller sent him Hank’s demo of the song, he initially rejected it because he didn’t like or want to sing country music, but Miller told him to forget it was a country song and listen to the lyrics, and he fell in love with it, recorded it, got a huge hit, and later recalled with pride that he had heard Hank would punch up his version whenever it was on a jukebox.
days later, and she played us the Buffett record, and I think Rob may have dated her for a while. Her name was Heidi.
Which brings me to Steve James, my buddy in Austin — later in Seattle, and now gone, but I stayed with him a bunch of times in Austin and almost blew up his house once by leaving one of the gas burners slightly on, which feels like the kind of thing the singer of this song would do. Steve always liked my pseudo-Congolese guitar arrangements — we first bonded over my version of “
adulation that has only gained power in the succeeding decades. I wrote about all of this at length in Dylan Goes Electric! Newport, Seeger, Dylan, and the Night that Split the Sixties, now the basis of a major Hollywood movie called A Complete Unknown, which recreates that moment with some added dramatic details. I’m not going to rehash all that history here, but it brought me back to the song.
“Down on Penny’s Farm,” recorded in 1929 by a group listed on the record label as The Bentley Boys, who remain largely obscure (though Tony Russell recently unearthed some background on them in his book Rural Rhythm). That song was about the miseries of working as a sharecropper, and made a perfect template for Dylan’s plaint:
rather than treating rural performances as raw material that needed to be smoothed out and gussied up for sophisticated urban listeners. It would be a few years before Pete’s half-brother Mike teamed up with Tom Paley and John Cohen to form the New Lost City Ramblers, the foundational group of the old-time music revival and the wave of artists Dave Van Ronk dubbed “neo-ethnics” — and Paley specifically cited Seeger’s album as inspiring him to painstakingly learn and recreate older guitar and banjo styles.
Unlike rock fans and critics, who take pride in knowing who recorded the “original version” of a song, the whole point of folk songs, as understood by Dylan’s friends, mentors, and models, was that they were done by no particular person or band and had no original—they were floating in the ether and any recording just captured a moment when someone with a machine happened to preserve one of the infinite versions and performances of songs that continued to change and grow.
The latter was Dylan’s first major hit, and the title has an obvious double meaning: it fits the lyric and also his choice to go head to head with the Stones and the new generation of rock bands that shared his immersion in deep US roots styles. He’d been playing Muddy Waters songs since his first days in New York — his live tapes include a version of “Two Trains Running” and the Freewheelin’ sessions include his reworking of “Louisiana Blues” — so when the Stones hit the US playing covers of Waters and Howling Wolf, and the Animals hit playing songs copped from his first LP, it was natural for him to team up with Mike Bloomfield and bring it all back home. Columbia Records framed the title of his first electric album in exactly those terms, presenting him as the native answer to the British invasion, and although some deaf or unthinking critics called his electric music “folk rock,” it had none of the soft folkiness of the Byrds or Sonny and Cher; it was blues rock, as loud and tough as anything the Stones were doing — especially by 1965, when they were adapting their style to fit his lyrical innovations.
Which said, he was a new kind of rock star, and when he sang this at Newport it was the knock-out punch of the combination that began with “Maggie’s Farm” — he wasn’t going to be part of their club anymore, was going his own way, alone, refusing to lead a new generation of committed idealists and sneering, “How does it feel, to be on your own?”